Roussel Eavestrough

Serving the GTA and surrounding area for over 50 years

Frequently Asked Questions

Whether you are researching your project for the first time or revisiting a particular concern or interest, we offer a list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS). We also welcome your questions, either by phone or email.

Have a question? CLICK HERE


  1. Q1:

    My Eavestrough looks like it’s in good shape but it’s leaking in a number of places. What is the possible cause?
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    Q1 ANSWERS(s):

    You need to look at the nature of the leak. Pre-finished aluminum can last for decades without having issues; the material will rarely ever fail on its own. Eavestrough is designed in such a way that it is higher at the back than the front. If you have a piece of eavestrough that is a closed system with 2 end caps and no drainage, water would flow over the front of the Eavestrough.

    A typical run of Eavestrough would have 1 or 2 downspouts so if the water is leaking over the front it generally means the downspout may be plugged with debris and needs to be cleared. Possibly another downspout needs to be added due to an overload or the Eavestrough should be re-sloped to ensure proper flow.

    If water is leaking behind the Eavestrough it generally is a roof issue. In most cases extending the "shingle length" by installing a drip edge can fix this problem. The drip edge helps to ensure that the water from the roof drains into the Eavestrough.

  2. Q2:

    My Eavestrough corners are all leaking. Can these be repaired?
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    Q2 ANSWERS(s):

    Yes if the water leak is not caused by rust or other damage. It is a time consuming process. All the silicone needs to come off and the corner needs to be cleaned down to bare metal and new silicone applied.

    We do not do repairs to existing Eavestrough systems as generally leaks occur from normal wear and tear, rust and/or other damage. We do carry out repairs on our own installations if they are workmanship related. If a leak occurs within the warranty period, we fix at no charge and if it does not we charge an hourly rate. 

  3. Q3:

    My Eavestrough seems like it can’t handle all the water. Do I need a larger Eavestrough?
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    Q3 ANSWERS(s):

    You may benefit from having a larger Eavestrough. If your Eavestrough is more than 25 years old and a 4" system with seams everywhere, it is time for full replacement to 5" or 6"seamless Eaves. In some cases an additional downspout or a larger size helps. Sometimes it may be debris clogging the Eavestrough runs inhibiting water flow or other factors (see also Q1)

  4. Q4:

    Should I replace my roof before I have my Eavestrough replaced?
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    Q4 ANSWERS(s):

    If you are having the roof done as well as the Eavestrough, the roof should be done first so that the new Eavestrough does not get damaged. Eavestrough can be installed on homes that have old or new roofs with no issues.

    Sometimes people see leaks in their Eavestrough and elect to have it changed without properly diagnosing the problem. In some cases leaks are caused by roof issues that are not related to the Eavestrough whatsoever. For this reason we suggest having the whole system replaced at once. We do not do roofs but can put you in contact with some excellent roofing companies.

  5. Q5:

    Does leaf guard really work or does it cause more harm than good?
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    Q5 ANSWERS(s):

    Eavestrough screen works well depending on the product, we’ve tried several; T-Rex is the CLEAR winner and the only system we use; click here

    In some metal roof applications we advise against leaf guard as there is less surface tension allowing water to flow more rapidly off the roof with the potential to cascade over the edge of the trough like a waterfall. Also if you have a very long drip flashing it can impede how efficiently water enters the trough as the effective trough opening is reduced.

  6. Q6:

    I have a metal roof. Do I need steel Eavestrough?
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    Q6 ANSWERS(s):

    Generally the Eavestrough does not contact a metal roof so Aluminum Eavestrough is okay. You definitely should have snow guards installed. Snow slides off metal roofs at an alarming rate and it will hit the Eavestrough and either bend it or rip it off entirely. We do recommend upgrading to a 6" Eavestrough which is an .027 gauge instead of .023"

  7. Q7:

    I have specialty roofing such as tile or steel roofing. What size Eavestrough do I need?
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    Q7 ANSWERS(s):

    We recommend 6" Eavestrough for these roofs. Tile and shake roofs sit higher off the roof deck while steel and aluminum are a bit lower. During heavy rain, high water volumes frequently flow over the front lip of standard 5" Eavestrough.

  8. Q8:

    What type of fastening method is best for Eavestrough?
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    Q8 ANSWERS(s):

    Nails (spikes & ferrules), concealed screw-in hanger brackets and T-Rex continuous hanger system are the three ways of attaching trough. Nails are more economical and are used in new construction by most major builders in the GTA. Eventually nails come loose and are not the best method. We install our Eavestrough with premium grade screw-in hanger brackets for superior holding strength and are hidden for a better look. T-Rex is the ultimate fastener and has no weak points; click here

  9. Q9:

    How many downspouts should I have on my house?
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    Q9 ANSWERS(s):

    More is better than less. An efficient well thought out water management plan takes into consideration strategic placement of downspouts to ensure water flows away from your homes foundation. Criteria for determining the number of downspouts include location of existing drains, length of Eavestrough runs and slope, landscape (gardens, patio, walkways, driveway, etc.), and ground slope.

    Unfortunately, some homes are limited with the amount of places where downspouts can be installed either because of the house style and/or landscape. In these situations we look for the best suitable locations.

  10. Q10:

    Why is there ice inside my Eavestrough?
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    Q10 ANSWERS(s):

    Large amounts of ice in the Eavestrough (ice dam) and icicles are caused by insufficient insulation in the attic. Most ice dams form when heated air from the house escapes into the attic and warms the underside of the roof, causing snow to melt and then refreeze when the water hits the cold overhang. Ice dams can force water back into the attic, where it can soak insulation and damage ceilings.

    We suggest that you have an attic specialist come and see if you have the proper amount of insulation in your attic; (see also Q18)

  11. Q11:

    Why is the city making downspout disconnection mandatory?
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    Q11 ANSWERS(s):

    Disconnecting downspouts can greatly reduce the amount of storm water entering the sewer system. Many parts of Toronto, built before the 1960s, are serviced by combined sewers (storm water and sanitary sewage carried in a single pipe). When it rains or snows, there is an increased volume of storm water which can overload the sewer system and cause it to release untreated sewage into our lake, rivers and streams or cause untreated sewage to back up into basements. Disconnecting downspouts is an important step in reducing the risk of basement flooding and releasing polluted rainwater into our local waterways.

    In cases where it may not be technically feasible to disconnect your downspout or where disconnection would create a hazardous condition, you can apply to the City for an exemption.


  1. Q12:

    Can I have a section of my siding repaired or does it need to be replaced?
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    Q12 ANSWERS(s):

    Vinyl siding can be replaced one piece at a time assuming you can find the same manufacture and profile . Aluminum siding needs to have all the pieces below the repair area replaced. You need to be careful and ensure that if you are matching material that the color will match as the product on the house will generally have the color more faded than what comes out of the box. Seldom is there a perfect match so you may consider replacing the entire side.

  2. Q13:

    Is vinyl siding waterproof, will water damage my walls?
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    Q13 ANSWERS(s):

    Vinyl siding is not waterproof (neither are bricks) and yes there could be water damage to the wall sheathing, both exterior and interior side of the wall no matter the type of cladding material. More concerning, mold and mildew could develop which is a known health concern.

    The key is wall preparation prior to installing vinyl siding; the exterior wall sheathing needs to be waterproof. This is accomplished by adding a breathable waterproof membrane better known as Tyvek or Typar. It is made with unique material science to keep air and bulk water out while allowing moisture vapor inside walls to escape.

  3. Q14:

    Can I install new siding over my existing siding?
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    Q14 ANSWERS(s):

    It depends, if the old siding is vinyl or aluminum, it must be removed, wall is prepared and then new siding installed. If you have old wood siding, shingles, insul-brick, etc., you can elect to have it removed but it may be possible to prepare the wall directly over the existing with wood strapping and, if desired add urethane insulation prior to installing new siding.

  4. Q15:

    I want to replace my siding but want something with an elegant upscale look. What are my options?
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    Q15 ANSWERS(s):

    Longboard Aluminum siding and James Hardie Fibre Cement siding are engineered for long lasting performance and luxury; click here

  5. Q16:

    My house is close to my neighbours house. Do I need fire rated siding?
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    Q16 ANSWERS(s):

    If the distance from an exterior wall plane to an adjacent property line (limiting distance) is less than 1.2m (3ft 11 in), the wall assembly would require compliance with the Fire-Resistance and Fire Protection ratings as identified by the Ontario Building Code for exposure to fire.

    Depending on the extent of the setback distance, you may be required to clad the exterior wall with a non-combustible product, in conjunction with the minimum fire resistance rating and construction type. If the limiting distance is less than 0.6m (1ft 11.5 in), it would make section (2)(c) and of the OBC applicable. Which would mean the exposed building face has a fire-resistance rating of not less than 45 min and is clad with non-combustible material.

    Where the limiting distance is less than 0.6 m, cladding on the exposing building face need not be noncombustible, provided the cladding, (a) conforms to Subsection 9.27.12., (b) is installed without furring members over not less than 12.7 mm thick gypsum sheathing or over masonry, (c) has a flame-spread rating not more than 25 when tested in accordance with Sentence, and (d) is not more than 2 mm in thickness exclusive of fasteners, joints and local reinforcements.

    Prior to commencing any work, it is highly advised to speak to your local municipality building code official to confirm the specific requirements that would apply to your property and particular situation.


  1. Q17

    Can I have aluminum work done in the winter?
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    Q17 ANSWERS(s):

    Yes the aluminum work can be done all year round; of course it depends on the weather. Extreme temperature, wind, snow and ice can make for difficult and unsafe working conditions.

  2. Q18:

    My house is always cold in the winter, should I have rigid insulation installed?
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    Q18 ANSWERS(s):

    Rigid wall insulation can help, provided your attic is in good shape. In some cases if you add more insulation to the walls of your home but you have a poorly functioning attic, you can create moisture problems in your attic.

    We suggest that you have an attic specialist come and see if you have the proper amount of insulation. R-50 is the new minimum R-Value requirements for attics in Ontario. To increase home comfort and save energy year round, start by reducing the heat loss through the attic. Also ensure proper venting in the attic, which is usually supplied by vents in the soffit. Inadvertently blocking the vents with insulation allows moist air to collect in the attic, which can cause wood rot and mildew.

  3. Q19:

    I hear different opinions about safety such as power line safety. Who do I believe?
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    Q19 ANSWERS(s):

    Contact with a power line could cause severe injury or in some cases death. It is in everyone's interest to follow safety standards. More important than that, it’s the law as stated by the Construction Projects Regulation (O. Reg. 213/91) made under the Occupational Health and Safety Act (Ontario)

    Should an injury occur, you could be held liable. As a property owner, contractor or third party supervisor, it is your responsibility to ensure that all necessary safety precautions are taken to prevent personal injury accidents. Roussel Eavestrough will always follow safety guidelines to protect you and our workers from hazards.